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Local Pockets · Volume 01 · Croatia

Kvarner and the Northern Islands, Croatia

The Adriatic before it learned to pose for the camera.

Kvarner is the stretch of Adriatic above Dalmatia, where Rijeka's working harbour gives way to a scatter of islands: Cres, Krk, Rab, Lošinj, Susak. It rewards the traveller who likes distance between themselves and the crowd. Days here are slow and a little earned. You drive a switchback, take a small boat, or walk a coastal path to reach the good things, and the good things are worth it. Inside the guide you will find harbour-town konobas where the catch sets the menu, island rooms reached only by ferry, clifftop wine towns, a single olive mill, and a cake the local nuns still bake. The one we open to you in full is Lubenice cliff village and the Sv. Ivan descent on Cres, a stone hamlet 378m up with a steep walk down to the water. Every place here was visited and checked against real sources. Verified, not invented. The full ten are in the Croatia guide.

One place from this region, on the house
Lubenice cliff village and the Sv. Ivan descent CC-BY-3.0
DRIFT

Lubenice cliff village and the Sv. Ivan descent

Cres · 378m above the western coast

Lubenice is older than almost anything around it, a stone village set on a ridge roughly 380m above the Adriatic, possibly inhabited four thousand years ago, with the sea a sheer drop below. Most people photograph it from the village and leave. The walk is the reason to come: a steep, strenuous descent through scrub and loose scree, well under an hour down, to Sv. Ivan, a white-pebble cove the colour the Adriatic gets when nobody is in it. There is no kiosk, no shade, no easy way back up except your own legs in the afternoon heat. Carry water and good shoes, swim, then earn the climb home.

◎ 44.8330 N, 14.3500 E (~) Source: en.wikipedia.org Verified
Photo: nschuwi / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 3.0
Also inside this region

10 places in Kvarner & Islands North

  • EATTrampov breg
    Rijeka · Trsat hillside, above the old town

    Oštarija Trampov Breg sits in Viškovo, out past the edge of Rijeka near the highway, which is why you find families, couples and regulars rather than…

  • EATKonoba Rab
    Rab town · inside the old-town stone lanes

    You have to phone a day ahead and say one word: peka.

  • STAYSusak guesthouse stay
    Susak island · a 30-mile boat from the mainland

    There are no cars on Susak and no roads to put them on, just a single island of fine sand laid over rock that you can…

  • STAYUnije island rooms
    Unije · westernmost of the Lošinj archipelago

    One village, one bay, a handful of rooms let by the people who live in them.

  • DRIFTStara Baška coves walk
    Krk · the island's quiet southern tip

    Most of Krk is bridge-connected and busy, which is why its southern tip empties out.

  • DRINKVrbnik Žlahtina at Gospoja
    Vrbnik · clifftop town on Krk's east coast

    Žlahtina grows almost nowhere but the bowl of fields below Vrbnik, a crisp dry white the rest of Croatia rarely sees.

  • DRINKSusak sand-grown wine
    Susak island · the vineyards behind the harbor

    Susak is essentially a dune, a hill of fine sand the wind dropped here over millennia, and somehow the islanders grow vines in it.

  • BUYCres olive oil at the island mill
    Cres town · the island's single oil mill

    Cres extra virgin olive oil was the first in Croatia to earn EU protected-origin status, pressed from groves so old the trees look like driftwood standing…

  • BUYRapska torta from the nuns
    Rab town · the Benedictine monastery and old-town shops

    A coil of almond paste and maraschino liqueur, wound flat like a snail shell and baked pale gold, the Rapska torta is the sweet of Rab,…

These open in the guide, with how to reach each one, when to go, and the source behind every claim.

The full guide

All 79 places across Croatia, Kvarner & Islands North included.

Every place fact-checked against real sources, every photo real and licensed. Instant PDF.